We decide to take a ride on the Grand Canal, like silk traders would have done. The boat is like the local bus. For £0.45, you get from A to B without having to risk your life in the constant flow of fast vehicles that inundates the city all through the day.

Someone shares a mooncake with me. I am lucky to see one, as the moon festival is over now. It happens early October, when the moon is full and the biggest and brightest of the year. It becomes a symbol for perfection and life cycle. Families gather as we would for Christmas to have a big meal together and share moon cakes.