If I hadn't been lucky enough to visit Sky Blue, I wouldn't have experienced what conditions in the Antarctic are truly like. Here at Rothera, life is very comfortable in our centrally heated buildings, hot water, and meals cooked for the 80 or so people on the base by Cyril our French chef. Rothera is the biggest of the BAS bases, and with the construction of a large new building taking place this summer, its getting even bigger.
Sky Blue is a plastic hut and a couple of pyramid tents placed there because of its proximity to a large glacial blue ice sheet scoured flat by the prevailing wind, which means it can be used as a runway for the BAS planes. The basic job of the people at Sky Blue is the maintenance of the runway, and the unloading of barrels of aviation fuel which are then used by the twin otters to get even deeper into the field. I was able to co-pilot a flight further south from Sky Blue into the Ellsworth mountains where a field party were camped on an the Rutford ice stream moving 1 metre a day.
It was a running joke at sky blue that every small task we had to do was 'an operation', 'operation get out of bed for a pee in the middle of the night' meant putting on coat, hat, gloves, sunglasses,bashing tent free of snow, untying tent, trudging to the 'turdicle' (a deep hole dug through the snow into which we were slowly forming a rather interesting giant frozen turd stalactite).
'Operation make a cup of tea' – first dig your snow……..
Fresh food was a novelty, and when the weather changed for the worse as it did we would often have a group of scientists and pilot to feed and find space for at night. Cooking for as many as 13 on one primus stove, and one fumy primus stove, with one onion, trying to avoid pasta yet again in the equivalent of a bus shelter was an interesting skill.
It snowed when I was at sky Blue, which meant clearing the run way. Using a teaspoon to empty the bath would be a good way of describing the operation. Six of us working on shifts round the clock for 3 days on 2 inadequate snowblowers…..knackering, but team building too. Adam the mechanic from Lancashire had a brilliant turn of phrase 'this is neither fishing or mending nets'.
In between refueling planes, cooking and clearing runways, skyblue was a hugely inspiration place that fitted my way of thinking, and has made clear lots of directions, I will never forget it.
