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Holy Coke

Friday 29th January.

We go up to the University of Cape Town, where two generations of Beinarts have worked or studied, to visit the Kaplan Centre for Jewish studies. The campus is beautiful, up on the side of the mountain with Ivy-clad buildings and a panoramic view of the city and the sea. We are greeted by Milton Shain, a historian who remembers Granddad Ben and our Dad. He is very helpful and takes us down to the library where we look through books and documents relating to Jewish migration into S.A. We read an interview with Ziporah Beinart, who married Koppel Beinart, describing life in Malmesbury in the 1920s. We see extracts from a Yiddish cook-book and another book in Yiddish which contains some pictures of Rakishok (Rokiskis) – the Lithuanian town we believe our ancestors came from.

In the archives, I look at photos of Cape Town docks from the 1890s and 1900s, and try to get an idea of what Woolf, Gittel and their contemporaries might have seen on their first arrival. The librarian working there remembers our aunt Helen, from her student days. It sometimes feels like ‘Beinart’ is a magic word here – it allows us access into the South African Jewish community, and people are very friendly and willing to help.

In the evening, we have been invited for Friday night supper, Shabbat, at the home of another relative. Hilary Joffe is the Granddaughter of Chana Beinart, who was Woolf’s sister. The dinner is at her son, Ivor’s flat. Ivor is a Cantor at the local Shul, and officiates at weddings, funerals and bar mitzvahs. I find myself stumbling over the terminology connected to the Jewish faith – we have been bought up with none of this in our lives, and I feel ignorant about Jewish customs and beliefs. The family are very welcoming. Ivor’s sister Peta is also there, and Hilary’s mother, husband, cousin Cynthia and her husband. There is much talk before supper of who’s related to whom and how, of facial characteristics and pondering over the family tree. Then Grandmother lights the candles and we sit down at the table. I am a little nervous – I’m not sure exactly what will happen and how I should behave. Ivor fills up the silver cup with special kosher wine and says the Kiddush prayer, to which the others occasionally respond. He fills up small cups for each of us with the blessed wine. Then something very strange happens – he pops open a can of Coca-Cola and fills the holy silver cup with that, repeating the prayer to bless the brown fizzy liquid. He gives the holy coke to his grandmother, explaining that she doesn’t drink alcohol. I ask if that’s traditional and they laugh. Next, Hilary’s husband cuts the challah, the plaited bread, and sprinkles it with salt before passing us each a piece. Katy and I are fascinated by this – it seems our bread and salt obsession is still relevant to Jewish culture. After that, we are served a feast of soup, followed by fish and vegetables, and finally cake. Before we leave, this generous family invites us to their other daughter’s wedding. We say we’ll come – perhaps this will be the only Jewish wedding we’re ever invited to.

The following week we have lunch with Gail, another Beinart. Her father was Abe, Woolf’s youngest son, and she tells us the story of how he ran away to join the army when he was seventeen. As soon as the train pulled out of Malmesbury station and his strict father was out of sight, the young man threw his prayer shawl and cap out of the train window. But in the end he married a woman from an orthodox family, so he didn’t reject Jewish customs entirely. I am struck by the way that one generation holds tightly to their traditional culture, whilst their children reject it, and their grandchildren search for it. That seems to be a typical pattern in migratory families. I find myself confused as to whether I am trying to understand Judaism as a culture or a religion, and whether the two can be separated. But at least the centrality of abundant shared meals in our lives has remained.


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Relationship Issues

An artistic collaboration between siblings seems to fascinate other people, perhaps partly because they are secretly wondering if we fight all the time. After 26 days in a small cabin aboard a ship together and 3 weeks sharing our bedroom and studio space, Katy and I have been feeling the pressure a little. Before we reach the point of playing mean tricks or pulling each other’s hair, we had a grown-up chat about our relationship. We realised we’re starting to feel like a couple who never have any time apart – it stops us from appreciating each other, and squashes our creative relationship. So we’ve decided to have some time apart, pursue our own interests and plan a special date. We haven’t written to Mariella Frostrup yet.


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“Sewe Sakke Sout”

Tuesday 27th January: We set off early and head north out of Cape Town on the N7. It is raining slightly, and the morning traffic crawls around the knotty road junctions. Soon we are away from the city, driving past dry yellow fields with dark mountains in the distance. We pass the turn-off to Malmesbury and keep going. We are looking for Velddrif, at the mouth of the Berg River, where salt is still harvested. It’s further than we’d thought, and we drive 60km on a small bumpy road that cuts through the velt, with barely any other people or buildings to be seen. We do see several tortoises, ambling slowly across the road with no concern for the large lumps of metal hurtling by.

We reach Velddrif town and look for the Khoisan Salt factory, where we’ve arranged a tour. We are greeted by the friendly manager, who sits down with us and patiently explains the process of salt evaporation that they use here. He shows us a technical graph depicting how long different concentrations of salty water take to evaporate, and the trace elements you find in salts. Then he draws us a beautifully confusing map and sends us off to see the huge salt lakes where they harvest the salt.

Katy drives along the precarious sandy road between the lakes, and we see flamingos sunning themselves in the shallow water. It’s a remarkable and strange landscape. In the centre of this complex of water we find a mountain-range of salt, which a group of men are mining to fill sacks that are then loaded onto a lorry. We are given a tour by Isac. He takes us to the first pond, where 400-year old briney water filters through a bed of seashells which are the remnants of an ancient seabed. He explains that their salt contains calcium and other trace elements due to this source. From here, the water flows 6km as it filters through the complex, becoming increasingly concentrated, so that the last ponds are thick with pink-white salt. We see the small pans where the finest grade of salt crystals are hand-harvested, to make ‘fleur de sel’ – the salt of the Pharaohs.

Kathryn Smith had told us about an Afrikaans saying, “Sewe Sakke Sout”: If you have shared Seven Sacks of Salt with someone, it means you have walked a long way with them.

Rebecca Beinart


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Stellenbosch

We visit Stellenbosch to see the University gallery, where we’ll be showing our work in March. It’s an amazing venue, in an old church with a beautiful vaulted ceiling and old chandeliers. There’s great potential in such a big space. But it also made us look at the calendar with a quiver of fear: despite Bergsonian philosophising, time is passing fast.

Walking around the sleepy streets of typical Cape Dutch architecture now filled with chichi shops and cafes, we spot a toy and miniature museum. We appear to be the only visitors, and get a personal tour. As I have just started to construct miniature stage sets, it seems optimal timing by the universe to drop this in our laps. We marvel at the tiny recreations of a basement garage (complete with crushed coke can). The curator has extensive knowledge of plants and shows us the museum grounds, explaining the origination of the trees and plants.

I am struck by the imposition of environments, so that the whole of Stellenbosch is really like one of the miniature models, a constructed world, an amalgamation of styles and mismatched objects, plants and trees, brought together to create a new version of place and identity for the colonists. And our tourist experience is yet another veneer of artificiality, a reconstructed pastiche of this reconstruction of place.

At Stellenbosch University, we have a long chat with Kathryn Smith, artist, curator and lecturer in fine art. I notice her collection of minituare cameras, each offering views of famous tourist sites of the world. Somehow it is an apt ending to our day to look at technicolour views of the Eiffel Tower and the Taj Mahal.

Katy Beinart


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Baking in Cape Town

Our culture has survived 26 days at sea, two weeks in a fridge in Cape Town, and a power cut. It was definitely high time to let it express itself in some loaves. At the weekend we decided to make our first batch of South African bread, and started the process in the kitchen at Alfred Street. The culture smelt ripe, and responded the warmth of unexpected summer with enthusiastic bubbling. On Saturday evening, the dough was ready and we baked three small loaves, which were enjoyed hot and buttery by our housemates.


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